The best things to do in Australia

The Great Barrier Reef. The largest coral reef system in the world at around 344,400 square kilometres, and still an extraordinary experience despite repeated bleaching events. Access is from Cairns, Port Douglas or the Whitsundays. Choose an operator with a high-standard eco-certification and go to an outer reef site rather than an inshore one — the difference in coral health is substantial.

Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa. A 348-metre sandstone monolith in the desert that photographs badly and experiences overwhelmingly. It is Aṉangu land, jointly managed, and climbing has been prohibited since October 2019 at the Traditional Owners' long-standing request. The base walk, the Field of Light installation and sunrise from the dune viewing area are the things worth doing. Kata Tjuṯa, 40 kilometres away, is arguably better and much less visited.

Sydney Harbour. The city is overpriced and the harbour justifies it. Do the Manly ferry rather than a harbour cruise — it costs a few dollars on an Opal card, takes 30 minutes, and passes everything. Walk the Bondi to Coogee coastal path. The Opera House is worth going inside rather than photographing from outside.

The Great Ocean Road. A 240-kilometre coastal road west of Melbourne, best driven over two days rather than one. The Twelve Apostles are the famous stop and the most crowded; Loch Ard Gorge and the Otways rainforest are better and quieter.

Tasmania. Cradle Mountain, the Bay of Fires, Freycinet, Port Arthur and MONA in Hobart. Tasmania rewards slowness and punishes tight itineraries — the roads are slower than the map suggests.

Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia deserves more attention than it gets. It is a fringing reef you can swim to from the beach, whale sharks visit between roughly March and July, and it is nothing like as crowded as the Great Barrier Reef.

Kakadu is a genuine World Heritage site listed for both natural and cultural value, with rock art at Ubirr and Nourlangie dating back tens of thousands of years. It is a dry-season destination — much of it is inaccessible in the wet.

Kangaroo Island, the Grampians, the Blue Mountains, Lord Howe Island and the Flinders Ranges are all excellent and all considerably less visited than the headline list.

Australia's wildlife is genuinely worth planning around, but zoos and sanctuaries are not the same as seeing animals in the wild, and the wild sightings are usually better.

Kangaroos and wallabies are common at dawn and dusk in almost any bushland and on golf courses everywhere. Koalas are best seen at Kennett River on the Great Ocean Road, on Raymond Island in Victoria and on Magnetic Island in Queensland. Wild platypus can be seen at Eungella in Queensland and in Tasmanian rivers at dusk, with patience.

Whale migration runs along both coasts between roughly May and November, and whale watching from Sydney, Hervey Bay and Albany is reliable in season. Whale sharks visit Ningaloo between March and July. Penguins come ashore at Phillip Island every evening year round.

The genuine dangers are fewer than the reputation suggests, with two exceptions worth taking seriously: saltwater crocodiles in northern Australia, where warning signs mean exactly what they say, and marine stingers in tropical waters between roughly November and May, where stinger suits and netted swimming areas exist for good reason.

Domestic flights are the default for anything over about six hours' drive, and booking several weeks ahead makes a substantial difference. Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin Australia cover most routes, with Rex serving many regional destinations.

National park entry fees vary by state, and multi-park passes are usually far better value than daily entry if you will visit more than two or three. Each state manages its own parks; Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa and Kakadu are managed by Parks Australia and have their own passes.

Book Uluṟu accommodation early — Yulara is the only settlement near the rock and its capacity is finite.

Sun protection is a health matter rather than a comfort one. The ultraviolet index in an Australian summer regularly reaches levels where unprotected skin burns within minutes.

For beaches, swim between the red and yellow flags. Rip currents are the leading cause of coastal drowning deaths, and the difference in safety between patrolled and unpatrolled beaches is very large.